A well-built chicken coop is one of the most practical weekend woodworking projects — it houses a flock that provides fresh eggs daily, lasts 15–20 years with minimal maintenance, and costs $200–$500 in materials versus $800–$2,000 for a comparable commercial unit. These plans cover a 4×6-foot walk-in coop for 4–6 standard hens, with a ventilated roost area, two nesting boxes, a droppings board for easy cleaning, a hardware cloth predator apron, and a 4×8-foot covered run attached to the side.
Ted’s Woodworking has chicken coop plans in every size — from 2-hen A-frame tractors to 20-hen permanent coops — with complete cut lists and material specifications. Browse Ted’s coop plans →
Step 1: Plan the Size and Site
The most common coop-building mistake is building too small. Chickens confined to insufficient space develop pecking disorders, feather pulling, and reduced egg production. Size correctly from the start — a coop is hard to expand later.
Space requirements:
- Indoor roost area: minimum 4 square feet per hen (standard breeds); 3 sq ft for bantams
- Outdoor run: minimum 10 square feet per hen; 20+ sq ft is better
- For 4–6 standard hens: 4×6-foot coop interior (24 sq ft) + 4×8-foot run (32 sq ft)
Nesting boxes:
- One nesting box per 3–4 hens (so 2 boxes for 4–6 hens)
- Box dimensions: 12×12×12 inches minimum; 14×14 for larger breeds
- Position: 12–18 inches off the floor, lower than roost bars (hens sleep high; boxes lower prevents them from roosting in boxes and soiling them)
Site selection:
- Partial shade: afternoon shade in summer reduces heat stress
- Good drainage: avoid low-lying areas
- Prevailing wind: position the coop so the main ventilation faces away from prevailing wind
- Predator consideration: at least 3 feet from the property fence line (predators dig along fence lines)
Step 2: Build the Floor Frame and Foundation
The floor frame is the most critical structural element — it must resist moisture from below and support the weight of the flock, feeders, waterers, and bedding (100–300 lbs total).
Foundation options:
- Concrete blocks at each corner: simple, cheap, allows airflow under the floor, deters burrowing predators
- Pressure-treated skids: two 4×4 PT skids running the full 6-foot length; rest on pavers; allows moving the coop
Floor frame cut list:
- 2 × rim joists: pressure-treated 2×4 at 72 inches (6 feet)
- 3 × floor joists: pressure-treated 2×4 at 45 inches (spans the 4-foot width, between the rim joists)
- 1 × floor deck: ¾-inch exterior-grade plywood at 48×72 inches
Assemble the frame with 3-inch exterior screws. The floor must be elevated at least 8 inches off the ground — this prevents moisture contact, allows airflow, and denies predators a hiding spot under the coop.
Floor covering: Staple heavy-gauge hardware cloth (½-inch mesh) to the underside of the floor frame before installing the plywood deck. This prevents rats from chewing through the floor from below.
Step 3: Frame the Walls
The walls are 2×4 stud frames covered with exterior-grade plywood siding. Keep framing simple — no fancy angles — so the build goes fast and the structure is maximally rigid.
Wall framing (for a 6-foot tall walk-in coop):
- Front wall: 48 inches wide × 72 inches tall, with a 30×72-inch door opening and a 12×6-inch vent opening at the top
- Back wall: 48 inches wide × 66 inches tall (6 inches shorter — creates roof slope for drainage)
- Two side walls: 72 inches long, tapering from 72 inches (front) to 66 inches (back)
Stud spacing: 24 inches on center is fine for a small coop — saves lumber and the walls carry no significant load beyond the roof.
Vent openings: Every wall should have at least one vent opening covered with hardware cloth — not chicken wire (too weak; weasels pull through chicken wire). Position vents high on the wall (top 12 inches) so drafts don’t hit roosting hens directly. Ventilation prevents ammonia buildup from droppings and respiratory disease — the #1 health issue in backyard flocks.
Step 4: Build the Roof and Nesting Boxes
Roof:
A simple shed roof (single slope, no ridge) is the fastest to build and most weather-resistant for a small coop:
- Two rafters: 2×4 at 54 inches, spanning the 4-foot width with a 3-inch overhang each side
- Roof deck: ¾-inch exterior plywood at 54×78 inches
- Roofing: self-adhesive roofing underlayment + metal drip edge at the eave
The 6-inch height difference between front and back walls creates a slope of 1 inch per foot — adequate for water runoff.
Nesting boxes:
Build two 14×14×14-inch boxes as a single unit (28×14×14 inches) mounted to the inside of the back wall:
- Cut list: ½-inch exterior plywood — 2 sides, 1 back, 2 dividers, 2 slanted fronts (10-inch front, to prevent roosting on the box edge), 2 bottoms with a 1-inch gap at the front for drainage
- Mount 18 inches off the floor on a 2×4 ledger
- Add a 3-inch lip at the front of each box to keep bedding in
- Line each box with a 2-inch layer of wood shavings or straw — hens prefer a cupped nest
Droppings board:
Install a ¼-inch plywood board 6 inches below the roost bars — this catches 80% of overnight droppings and is slid out for cleaning. Line it with PDZ or Sweet PDZ (zeolite mineral) to absorb ammonia. A droppings board cuts coop cleaning time from 30 minutes to 5 minutes.
Step 5: Install Hardware, Predator Protection, and Run
Hardware:
- Door: use a 2-bolt sliding latch (raccoons open single-bolt latches) or a carabiner clip on the door latch
- Pop door: a 12×14-inch sliding pop door (the chickens’ door) on the outside of the coop, operated by a pull cord from outside the run — allows opening without entering the run
- Roost bars: 2-inch diameter wooden dowel or rounded 2×2, positioned 18 inches off the floor and 12 inches from the back wall; allow 10 inches of roost space per hen
- Feeder and waterer: hang from the ceiling on S-hooks to keep them at hen-shoulder height (reduces waste and contamination)
Predator apron:
The most important predator protection feature. Bury or lay flat a 12-inch-wide strip of ½-inch hardware cloth around the entire perimeter of the run, extending outward from the base of the run walls. Predators (foxes, coyotes, raccoons) dig straight down at the base of a fence — they never dig outward, so an outward-extending apron stops virtually all digging predators. Secure with landscape staples every 6 inches.
Run construction:
- Frame: 2×4 pressure-treated posts at the four corners, set in concrete, 7 feet tall
- Sides and top: ½-inch hardware cloth (not chicken wire — weasels fit through 1-inch mesh and raccoons tear through it)
- Cover the entire top with hardware cloth — aerial predators (hawks, owls) are a serious threat in most areas
Chicken Coop Plans FAQ
How big should a chicken coop be for 6 chickens?
Minimum 24 square feet of indoor floor space (4 sq ft per hen) plus at least 60 square feet of outdoor run (10 sq ft per hen). These are minimums — more space reduces stress, disease, and behavioral problems. A 4×6-foot coop with a 6×10-foot run is comfortable for 6 standard hens. For 6 dual-purpose large breeds (Rhode Island Reds, Plymouth Rocks), size up to a 5×8-foot coop.
What is the best wood for a chicken coop?
Pressure-treated lumber for all ground-contact framing (floor joists, skids, run posts). Untreated Douglas fir or pine for the wall framing (elevated off the ground). Exterior-grade plywood for siding and floor decking. Cedar for interior surfaces (naturally antimicrobial and aromatic — chickens prefer it). Never use OSB or MDF — they absorb moisture, swell, and grow mold rapidly in a coop environment.
How do I keep predators out of a chicken coop?
The three vulnerabilities are the door latch (raccoons open simple latches — use a two-step mechanism), the run mesh (use ½-inch hardware cloth, not chicken wire), and the run perimeter (lay a 12-inch predator apron of hardware cloth extending outward from the run base). Automatic pop doors (closes at dusk, opens at dawn) prevent the most common predator event — a hen left out overnight. No coop is 100% predator-proof, but these measures handle 99% of predator attacks.
How much ventilation does a chicken coop need?
At least 1 square foot of ventilation per hen, positioned high on the walls (within the top 12 inches). Ventilation should be adjustable — open in summer, partially closed in winter — but never fully closed. Chickens are respiratory disease-prone, and ammonia from droppings accumulates rapidly in a poorly ventilated coop. If you can smell ammonia when you open the coop door in the morning, there is insufficient ventilation.
How do I insulate a chicken coop for winter?
Chickens (especially cold-hardy breeds like Wyandottes and Buckeyes) tolerate temperatures down to 0°F without supplemental heat — as long as the coop is draft-free and dry. Insulate with ½-inch rigid foam board on the interior of the walls, covered with a thin plywood liner so hens don’t peck the foam. The coop should be draft-free (seal all gaps with caulk) but NOT airtight — ventilation is still essential in winter. Add extra deep bedding (4–6 inches of wood shavings) to capture body heat from the flock.
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